The first question people ask: when is the best time to travel to Svalbard, Longyearbyen?
The answer: When we started living here i caught myself after every month thinking that the last month was the best. In October i thought: Wow, September is so beautiful here, the coulours of the endlessly long sunsets, the beautiful mountains, the smell of the first snow in fresh air. No trees! In November: Wow, the cold, the snow, the promising auroras! And this would continue until September next year thinking: Wow, August is awesome, the colours of the plants, the grass, the reindeers, the hikes to the mountains! You see?
Then again, now i do have a little insight perhaps; The first question might actually be to yourself: what am i looking for in this trip? What do i want to see and experience?
I have a feeling this will become a long post, right.. O_O
Aurora borealis, the northern lights:
More often people are eager about the polar-day than the polar-night. As an estonian, i surely could kind of imagine the polar-day, since we have something like that in the midsummer (of course here it's like totally much more of a "day" than in estonia that one-two nights) but the polar-night seemed therefore arose more interest: how will we cope? how does it feel? Will we go mad not seeing the sun for months? Do we change as people? Haha! When the only indicator for morning or evening is the clock, will it be depressing?
It is strange, especially here, since in December there isn't even a hint on light at any time of the day. (In Tromso there supossed to be still a little blue time during midday).
But this darkness is good.... very good to see some northern lights, aurora borealis. This is something of course you cant scedule, but with a bit of luck it's possible. In my personal experience the best times for that might be November and December. In January it's usual to have a warmer period with the snow melting and rain, so the clouds cover the sky. February might work too, since it is still cold and the night still is much much longer than the subtle light that might take only an hour or three of the entire day. After the 8th of March we have the sun coming back fast and then there is even more to look out for.
Dogs, snowmobiles, skiing/hiking:
My favourite is the dogsledge rides. A tip: when you're on the sledge, riding between the white snowcovered mountains in the dark polarnight, starry sky above you - switch off your headlamp, that way you can see more. You're on a different planet, sweeping through the universe in silence. But the first rule of dogsledging is.... never let go of the sldege. As cute and loving the dogs here are, they will not stop when you fall off. Hold on tight!
The second thing: In smaller companies you get to interact with the dogs, it means, you yourself will put them on the sledge, later take them off and feed them. In seven cases of nine: I'm afraid of dogs. After interacting with the sledgedogs here, i've partly overcome that fear... im not afraid of sledgedog anymore. (Still afraid of the bulldog or something, who lives on our street.) The common breed here is the alascan husky, which is here a bit of a mix of the greenland dog too, here and there some siberian husky vibes in corporated. It's told that the innuits used dogs to keep children warm during cold winternights, -days, so that only a friendly dog could survive in that culture. We had a chance to dog-sit a retired greenlanddog couple of times and she's the sweetest ever, even with three children running around screaming and a house full of exitement.... she was chill, wanting to cuddle.
Snowmobilerides: fast and furiously through the arctic! With a snowmobile obviously one can get much further in little time on the island, but beware! Safety first! Thereare awesome trips offered, but keep in mind: you are driving, therefore you need a driverslicence with you and you need to be sober. It might seempalpable. Worth mentioning anyway. And... last year we witnesed a snowmobile accident right from our window, where a trip didn't last even 300m in the valley, when a scooter spinned and crashed. It was the day of the solar eclipse and this guy had to lay in the hospitalbed instead. The reason being: because he drives a motorbike, he thought to make some trick with the snowmobile too, well, it was an totally exiting day. Lucky he didn't crash into someone else and survived with some broken bones.
When it comes to skiing, i must say, i haven't tried this here. I've been more on hikes on the snow. The good thing: no need to go too far. The mountains around the smal town offer great views and nice nature experiences. Depending on your strength you can combine a longer/harder trip, or something more easy. The Platåfjell is quite popular during winter and summer.
Im going to leave you with two links, Spitsbergen Travel and Svalbard Wildelife, to look around and see the different opportunities. Usually trips with dogs and snowmobiles provide you a overallsuit, hat, gloves, shoes, that are suitable even for harsh conditions. The shoes are designed to keep feet safe even with -40 C.
It's quite a long blogpost aleady, so i continue some time later about other oportunities/seasons and my views and tips about them ;) and what to pack with you when travelling to Svalbard as a tourist ;) See you soon! Bisous!
When and why did i edit this photo to become so color-mad? But as i wanted it to be quick, just picked out one random photo from August, 2015. We went on a short hike with Martin and my mom near the Longyear glacier. We never got to it directly because the snowmelting-river was just a bit too risky to cross. After that time spent outside i feel that hikes make people into better people. And i really want to send many-many youtube account holders to hikes, because the comments of some people.... No need to explain, right?
Wednesday! Ohh, where does the time go? Like whos's eating it away? Or is there a huge vacuumcleaner that's sucking it away? Like in this moomin short film. Strangely enough this is our boys favourite moomin cartoon (but in swedish/norwegian language, still in poem form). We saw it on a dvd of best short animations from that time(1993).
Actually, it's not that far fetched as you may think, since all ecquiptment that's been sent to Mars and will be sent there, is tested here in Svalbard.
But there was an event even bigger: the total solar eclipse. I was like "yeah, okay, whatever" before i saw it. Now im just playing that memory like one cheriched record in my mind.
.
I wasn't sure how to photograph it, without any filters and without any time to buid one. One friend suggested to take a video, with family, so that it'll be a nice reminder of this special event. I put the music of Mono as a backround, because... well, they just fit. Oh, i wish they would have a show here. Members of Mono, if you ever read this... come to Svalbard, you can stay in my room :)
Now i get the people who travel the worls just chasing the eclipses. There is magic.
14. Feb. 2015
March
Without any flowers, any budds, or greens, even the choiche in the supermarket here is the same through the year so far... it still feels like Spring. I guess it's the sun. The days are cold and sunny, some days wihtout wind, those are the best. Windchill can be a real monster if it adds -10 dergees on top of -17C. As you see, the light changes quickly. Soon the sun will not set anymore and we have our polarday. Im curious.
It's weird but i can't really remember a time i was more hungry for music than i am now. I was just listening and watching this Damien Rice live piece and ahhh.. it's so good (low quality video though), how awesome it must have been to be there live. I miss live instruments: piano, strings, guitar, voice. And the sensation of a concert. Lately.
So, Valentine's Day is over. Many-many e-mails are waiting to be written. I still suspect time flows here differently, but it might not be because we're exactly here, but that we are somewhere else. But homesickness is something strange, since you can feel it anywhere, even when you'r home. I listened to some music in the evening, when everyone is sleeping, and felt that this yearning is maybe something really great, moving people to create so many beautiful tunes. Thanks to this song i actually will keep an eye on the competition for the eurovision song contest.
As im browsing through an estonian ebook-shop in the section of foreign classics, i see a lot of Cartland next and between some Dostojevski, Gogol, Rilke and Fizgerald, Bacon. When did that happen? And it makes me wonder if i should buy one of Cartlands ebooks? But the pink exterior with the flowers and old pin-up-like photographs kind of make it look like a toothache.
It's 3am in my hometown and here i am wide awake. For some days (weeks) i have developed this medieval habit of waking up in the middle of the night. I have my continuing zombie-moments.
Recently i sent out our weddingphotoswebsite and included some polarnight impressions, very minimal though, but the responses were theremore amuzing. Anwsers kept coming with the content: thought we have the sun, it's not that bright, its actually really-really dark here too.
M, who's been here for couple of years, says that when she goes home in november she's just so happy to see the sun rise every morning, that rain, clouds, mud and anything-everything else seems actually like decoration. I guess it's not something easy to comprehend and i think those responses were meant to cheer us up. And, well, they did. In a odd way, but they did.
Maybe it's likewise as in paintings, when you want to give the impression of darkness you add a little light somewhere and vice versa. So the gray-dark winter is much harder to endure perhaps?
Mørketide or dark season is here actually dark, i mean, like night, like really, honestly. Even people coming from Tromsø are surprised by it, altho they also have this mørketide they "celebrate", still on midday some sunrays reach that northern city of norway. But not here. Not this town.
So while we have not seen the sun, at the moment for almost two months now, we wait patiently and calmly, cuddle up in warmth and take in every source of light with the utmost delight ;) that way we survive, longing quietly for the sunrise, that awaits us here in February.
People are mean. They are, in an unknowing way. Like myself, when with an odd feeling i discover, that ten sentences ago i might insulted the person im talking with, or at least tapped on an old wound. A feeling of bit guilt and anticipation. There isn't room for an apology, that would seem weird, oddly personal and out of the blue. Ignoring and continuing is the way. We say sorry only when we really meant to hurt someone, it seems. ?
Our mouths are the sliding doors of the night metro: who knows what'll jump out of there.
It's been a week of "great plans" and "nothing much". The worst and the best in one. It's not that bad, as i look at my calendar and the crossed out to-do-list, but it's the feeling. We've been a bit sad i guess. We know we'll stay here for christmas, and we know that everyone we know here, will not.
I guess i doesn't matter that much. We'll get over it.
Yesterday night was a great snowstorm. Constant howling for days. It's over now and i can hear one of the neigbours showeling snow. At midnight.
Yesterday i got really overwhelmed by all this panning stuff. But that sort of reality-check was a good thing (i will be probably like tomorrow, or somewhere in the future thinking that way). We went to see the place of the party and well, memory can play tricks on everyone. Everything looked unlike the way i imagined/remembered. Now, we need a tent, a good one, and in a totally different place. But where? Lights? *holding my head with both hands*
Since we have family helping out, that's a good thing. Just need to get my head around it all again, find some enthusiasm and someone to tell me that my ideas are neat too. ^_^ Honestly, there is no such thing as keeping it simple. People around us have expectations and we kind of don't want to let them down either. Blaah.
That is one of the biggest flaws in this project, that we get stressed out. I planned on going to do it with a leisure attitude: It's a party and i'm going to enjoy myself. I wish to do so even now, while planning. I hope to make it my mantra. Keeping up my creative touch and keeping my pace of running things. Since i don't know anyone who'd say that worrying was totally helpful :))
In less than three months we're going to change countries for two years. There's pleeenty to do. I like that. It's my secret joy thinking about it. It's going to be a great challenge and that makes me kind of smile.
Spring-spring-spring, you're driving me nuts. After tree lipsticks, a batman-cap and a pair of silly shoes - it's still not quite what i wanted. Just fitting into the statistics. But i can't help it: after four hours of insane mathematics with two very tired and therefore angry babies and a cookie for lunch, it just happens. Well, Monday +30C they say. As for the week, i say it was an okay week. We had fever, tears and fears and all good the next day, went to see a play (Wednesday Martin, Thursday me ;the same play so we could talk about it later), which was incredibly funny, cooked and baked, cut some hair, replanted my tomato-plants, had a massage, which was relaxing only to my aching back, but my pain receptors were killing it (im not sure if it wasn't even more painful, than giving birth,..., not sure, i say), failed an exam, and so forth. Caught myself thinking how i wish kids could cry like kittens miaow, because it would be so much more bearable at times - that must be the 2 years of no sleep talking. So. What have you done this week?
Like a character of black books (minus the cigarette)
My little tomato-plants are growing fast, except: this little pepper takes it slow, there's basil, salads and maybe soon it'll be time to try out some carrots and radish?
Here's a link for some advice, when it's your first time gardening on your windowsill. (it's not too late!)
My neighbours, who are also our friends from long ago, lent me a book a while ago, like 6 months?, further, i wasn't reading it until recently, when i had to return it, so typical!. And had to buy it online the next day. It's "Peaceful parent, happy kids". There was a time i read a lot and it also helped a lot, since it almost feels like a conversation with someone, who understands your situation and has a genlte way on offering advice. My belle-mère must be wonderwomen, raising 4 kids, who are only bit more than a year apart. Truly fascinating!
The feeling having had a good day with the kids is on my top list as i experienced it on Monday, when I had to skip Uni. It made me think, if i wasn't a bit too greedy starting to participate in a seminar, for what i barely manage to read the material, since it requires some real concentration. It isn't any fun that way, turning up having read it diagonal. There's definitely good stress and bad stress. But which is which? Spring is a busy time for Martin too and we don't really have a babysitter. So. I don't know. What would you do? Everything considered:
Why not start off the week with some funny mv (: Enjoy!
How last week-end looked like. And it was a good week with lots of plans and being outside. Above is a picture of a mezereon, a very poisonous plant. That's the thing with the outdoor kindergarten, you need people,who know plants and stuff, not only children. There are rules outside too and keeping those promises can be a serious matter. If that's settled, then there's no doubt about it, that kids love to be outside. A leave, a stick, a cone becomes a toy for a day.
Yeah.
So. Spring is the time to be motivated and get active. Playing sports outside, starting crafty projects and projects, getting exited with new ideas - the days get longer and longer. If something doesn't work out, don't worry, that happens. And it's okay to feel down about it. It'll come around again.
Communication has never been as easy as now, but still it's something in what we'll sometimes fail. Talking. Listening. Considering. Taking action. Taking criticism. Receiving advice. Being left out.
Is there someone who hasn't had a tough time managing these?
Oh, love the keyboard in this song. And sparkling stars bursting out of ones heart is also a familiar feeling. Fits perfect into a Sunday.
(the compulsory weather segment:)
Usually it takes a week or two for me to get out of my winter clothes and into spring ones. Looking around while shopping groceries: jackets and feather light scarves, sneakers and headbands, skirts, shorts... well, i was the weird one with my knitted mittens and hat, looking a bit like Kenny from SouthPark. But spring is sneaky and i was lucky. As my sneakers should arrive at some time in the end of march, Weather, let's keep teaming up!
(the unavoidable housewife nag:)
The guys are out and i'm in.. Looking at it all: dishes (we had people over on Friday, "can we come over" texts are great, when they work out - that happens), and all the toys and books and other stuff, and the laundry, that has to come out of the washing-machine and the laundry, that has to go into the washing-machine, some little helper has done some helping by emptying the sock-drawer, and the vacuum-cleaner needs a new bag..... well, if it isn't just the Myth of Sisyphus.
And then there's that seminar i'm attending. At first i was exited, and then i was too exited, and now i'm just afraid of making a fool out of myself again.
And i should start taking my drivers- licence exam, but i have'nt had the chance to study for it, so there's that too.
There's actually nothing to complain about, because it's all doable, and at one point i do get it all done. But on a Sunday evening it's just overwhelming. A bit.
Being at home with kids is not rocket science, but it might as well could be. And physically, its not like running a marathon or anything, but sometimes it would be great to have the luxury to train for and attend one.
Okay, i'll listen to this song now for a while and start figuring out photoshop to do some invitations for you, babes ;)
There should have been snow, it got cold and sunny and then warm and foggy instead. The marathon-man is worried. On the 16th February there's the local sky-marathon; training on snow will be possible only in January. Im quite okay with it, because we're able to move around with our big stroller for two and that alone is a big improvement. No more stuck at home times. We're out exploring the world... well, playgrounds mostly :)
On Tuesday i was heading back home, only to find out that the road i planned on going was all dug up, so i had the choice to go all the way back (there's a hill with no real road over) or push the stroller up almost a 75% steep hill. I was in a hurry too, so the steep hill it was. A "wow", as i made it. Never had stronger arms like these before (coming from someone, who did gymnastics for 13 years). Probably around 20kg and a backpack. I think i don't need to worry about any marathon: i can just join in anytime, since I'm having the greatest workout possible :)
In estonia you see many mothers wearing skying gear/sportswear on playgrounds and on walks. I never understood and thought that maybe one looses a sense of fashion when becoming a mom. Last winter i got to experience it. There is a practical reason for it- it's practical!
That classic coat with no hood is no good, when there's wind and I'm forced to run around, also, it's not really friends with little muddy boots, that happen to graze unavoidably, when lifting and carrying an adventurous little one. It's either cold or wet or rainy or all these three together. So, this winter im also looking at the hiking- and sportswear direction to stay alive (i mean, not stressed out and frozen). Sadly, the choice here is so limited, there's the high ranked gear for taking mount Elbrus or neon colored bling-bling stuff snowboarders wear, but is not really my style. Men can find dark-green jackets also in the fishing and hunting shops, but for women the choice is bland. In the biggest shopingcenter in the south i could find three choices with good material, that were knee-length and with a hood and with a reasonable amount of pockets, meant for "her". Only three! And it's the guys, who sit and work in the offices all day, while their wives fight the weather outside pushing that stroller!
Amazing... i can truly write a whole post about a jacket. Must start reading a book...right now!
It'll be november in a few days! Woah. All the colorful leaves are gone and it's pouring rain almost constantly. Every evening i've been baking pies with cinnamon and pumpkin-mash. It's my new zen thing to do, it seems. Just turn on Phil Collins already! Haha :))
No, seriously.
....
But I'm hoping to fill november with guests and some other sweets. This nasty cold is finally showing signs of moving along and moving out of our home. Sweet! Breathing through the nose is not overrated. It is wonderful. One actress once said (as i took a class from her), that when you have a cold, a running nose, it's better not to even think you could actually do anything else than focus on getting better. She's maybe 60 now, but looks like 40. Yoga and gardening were the secret ingredients :)) Why am i talking about that now? It just jumped out of my head.
All these articles about motivation, feeling happy, getting animated and so one being posted and re-posted: November iscoming.
Make it cozy!
And if cinnamon and tangerines don't do the trick,
you're allowed to get the christmas-lights out! ;)
It'll be a warm weekend, hence the fog, that stayed almost until noon. I went or a bike-ride to the supermarket and it felt nice. On Monday it'll be two weeks as a family of four. We're still looking for the rhythm: one day it goes smooth, the next one, not so much. There are moments when i feel like a diplomat in a crisis situation. I can handle it, i was surprised. These difficult and hard moments pass. They always do. There's always a solution.
Our neighbors, who have two a bit older kids themselves, have helped a lot this week. When it gets too loud here, i pack my kiddos and knock on their door :) I'm glad to have friends like that close by.
On the downside: Juss got a cold. It's been a while, it seems. The big question: parents, who let their kids go out on play-dates with a running nose, and parents, who don't - is there any right answer, since every occasion is different?
Well, i decided, we drop out of social life, until our running nose doesn't go running around to other noses :)) ( but i feel a bit frustrated, since we're been on the receiving end of these bacillary for a while now -_-)
We hope to have a healingly mellow weekend, with lots of sleep and being relaxed.